I love archaeology mostly because I am an emotional person. When I see what is left of these great civilizations of the past, I feel things. In the case of the Mayan ruins and the Teotihucan site, these sites were not conquered as far as we know. These sites were abandoned. We have theories as to why but we may never really know why they were deserted. I think there is something about the abandonment of these sites that resonates with me because of the stories of my grandparents who fled WWII Europe. When their neighbors turned on them, words that the Nazi Army was getting closer, there were signs that leaving everything behind may be the best solution for survival. I do wonder when I visit these sites if perhaps there was an eminent invasion and perhaps for the sake of the lineage, it made more sense to take what you can and leave quickly.
Perhaps I’m projecting my feelings on to these historical sites. Maybe that does not matter? One of these reasons I’m doing this trip is to acknowledge my feelings and live through them. I don’t feel like questioning them anymore. It tires me and it makes me feel weirder about myself. It’s like a self-perpetuating diagnosis. It really cannot get better unless I just stop doing it. I know everything isn’t about The Holocaust or WWII or the refugee crisis or Displaced Persons Camps. I am just sharing what I am feeling, that’s all.
I will admit, I was offended when I started meeting people who said that Chichen Itza “sucked” because you couldn’t climb the main pyramid. I was not offended when I was told, “if you’ve seen Teotihuacan, you can skip Chichen Itza”, until I saw Chichen Itza. Teotihuacan was built by a Nuahtl-speaking people similar to Aztec/Mexica. Chichen Itza is of the Maya people. The architectural style is completely different and the structures were built in different time periods. Yes, there are similar symbols. I want to point this out so you can understand my perspective a bit more around these sites. They make me solemn and I am humbled by them. I do not really compare them based on how much "fun" they are. I try to compare them based on the amount of architectural detail remaining, the size of the site and the interesting layout.
I think there is opportunity for more sensitivity when discussing these sites: I’m. It sure it’s appropriate to “like” or “dislike” the archaeological site of a lost or destroyed civilization. Maybe you don’t like archaeology and that’s ok. I’m not sure the site needs to impress you or anyone else. Visiting these sites should humble you or you should seek to be humbled because I find that feeling very satisfying. It’s ok to be reminded of our real place on the timeline of civilizations. We think we are so great with our technology. We really aren’t. (People in the US can’t find jobs). End rant.
Chichen Itza
I found Chichen Itza to be breathtaking. It’s three distinct sites, almost entire neighborhoods of their own. The temple structure that sits on a platform with a cylindrical shape and remnants of a domed top exhibit characteristics of complex architectural design. In this site, you can see remnants of archways whereas Uxmal is filled with columns and archways. I found the site to be overwhelming in its grandeur. The Pelote court is massive. The main pyramid humbles you. There is so much space around it to admire its glory.
Ek Balam
The site at Ek Balam offers a different layout with smaller pyramids and bases of structures leading towards the larger pyramid site. You can climb to the top of the main pyramid and see the top of the jungle forest. The pyramid has a significantly different design from other I’ve seen. The base is extremely wide and serves as the foundation for numerous buildings including the main pyramid. The pyramid is broken up into floors with significant setbacks. Each setback has a facade with carvings. The setbacks are accessible from the main pyramid steps once you ascend. You can see the rooms inside. One side of the pyramid contains a cistern for water collection. At the entrance to the Ek Balam site, you can rent a bike for a quick 8 min ride through the forest (or walk for 1 km in the scorching heat). At the end of this trail, you arrive at Cenote X’Anaché. This was the most beautiful cenote I’ve seen.
Dzibilchaltun
Dzibilchaltun’s ruins are unfortunately mostly lost to history. While there is a grand plaza with long walls with steps along them, the grand avenue separating this plaza and chapel area from the altar at the other end of the site is the most notable. I imagine some sort of arcade or bazaar lining this long space. Perhaps it was a religious space and there were no vendors. Continuing past the ruined pyramids and plaza is beautiful Cenote Xlacah.
Uxmal
The site at Uxmal had the most preserved architectural detail. Carvings at the top of the main period are large, humbling and visible from all over the Uxmal site. Uxmal’s nunnery complex seems to also serve as an amphitheater in modern times. It is the seating location for the light and sound show at night. From the upper seating area of the nunnery, you can see all of the large of the site in the distance. These include the main pyramid and also the striking governor’s palace. Uxmal was my “favorite” site so far, but I hesitate to use they phrase. I cannot say that a particular archaeological site is a favorite for how can I say what my favorite representation of a past civilization is? Isn’t that making it about me and what I like? I find the experience too humbling to really accept favoritism while visiting ruins. I will say Uxmal satisfied my interest in historical architecture and helped solidify my respect for the artists and intellectuals of the past.